Starting
at the top of Patrick's Street at Daunt Square (outside McDonalds),
on your left you will see The Queen's Old Castle (8). Although
now a shopping centre, it was one of the entrances to the city when the
streets were a maze of waterways. Walking through the shopping centre,
you will emerge onto the North Main Street, where many attractive shops
are located. Turn right and walk the length of the street, cross over
the North Gate Bridge (on your left archaeological excavations are in
progress). Facing you is Shandon Street which is quite a steep climb.
Half way up the hill to the right is Shandon Steeple (1). Seen
on TV as the background to a Murphy's Stout advert, up to recently it
was known as " the four faced liar" as each of its four clocks
used to show a different time. Built in 1722 the steeple has red sandstone
(south) and limestone (west) walls, from which the colours of the Cork
hurling and football teams are taken. Its famous chime of 8 bells, can
be rung by visitors for a small fee. The Shandon Craft and Firkin Crane
centres are located nearby in the old Butter Exchange, from where casks
of salted butter were exported world-wide since 1770. Nowdays it is an
arts, dance and theatre centre. Continue to the top of Shandon Street
where The North Cathedral (2) is located. Records of baptisms and
marriages have been kept here from 1748, and this is an excellent source
for visitors wishing to trace their family history. Follow Roman Street
and John Street back downhill to the river and facing you is the Opera
House (5). The Cork Opera House presents a variety of entertainment,
drama and music, and is one of the main venues for the annual Guinness
Jazz Festival (last weekend in October). Top artists and drama companies
from all over the world stage a summer season with high entertainment
and cultural value to attract both visitors and locals.
A
little further along Lavitt's Quay is Cork Arts Society Gallery (4),
which hosts continual exhibitions of fine art, paintings, sculpture, ceramics,
batiks etc. Continue west along the quay and you will come to a footbridge,
you can often see large flocks of swans and other birds nearby. The Granary
Theatre (23) is a little further on and the road leads on (walking
only due to 1-way traffic flow) to the Mardyke Walk. The Walk dates
from 1719 and is still a favorite of the people of Cork. At the far end
of the Mardyke are the University College Sports Grounds (24).
The new running track here has hosted Ovett, Coe, Walker, Cochlan, to
mention but a few. Back in 1984 the Russians broke the World Hammer record
here six times at one meeting. Situated just off the Mardyke are Fitzgerald's
Park and City Museum (27). The Park is a relaxing blend of riverside
walks, trees, flower beds and a natural lake with a fountain. Across the
river you can see many interesting buildings including Cork City Gaol.
This magnificent "castle style" 19th century building was a womens prison.
Today visitors can take a guided tour through furnished cells, with lifelike
characters, sound effects and view exhibitions and experience the day-to-day
life style of a 19th century prison. The gaol can be easily reached by
crossing the "shaky bridge" (a suspension style pedestrian footbridge).
Across
the Western road from the entrance to the Mardyke is the entrance to University
College Cork (25). Cork has just celebrated its 150th Aniversary City.
Tours are available of the University from June to September. The buildings
are styled after the Tudor Gothic period and visitors can walk the corridors
in the path of famous people such as George Boole, whose Boolean Logic
has become the basis of modern day computer science. Walking up the slight
hill of Donovan's Road past the University, take a left at the junction
and proceed along Gill Abbey Street, followed by another left on to Bishop
Street, where the magnificent St. Finbarr's Cathedral (21) is located.
St.
Finbarr's Cathedral was designed in mini-Gothic style by William Burgess
and built on the site of St. Finbarr's original settlement (606 AD). This
Early French Gothic structure is built proportionately to scale and features
highly ornamented, beautiful mosaic work and rich carvings. William Burgess
was obsessed with all things medieval - witness the detail - the soffits,
gargoyles, birds and beasts, the rose-window, and the multitude of ornate
carvings. The present building replaces two earlier churches and was completed
in 1870.
The plan consists of a nave with two side aisles, north and south transepts,
a beautiful absidal choir and an ambulatory running round the apse. The
South Transept houses a cannon ball fired during the siege of 1690. Hanging
from the ceiling in this transept is the Roll of Honour of parishioners
killed during the Great War 1914 - 1918. The doorway in the boundary wall
on Dean Street dates from 1600. St. Finbarre's has three spires - the
tallest central tower and spire reaching 240 ft. The peal of 8 bells cast
by Rudhalls of Gloucester are from a previous church and are hung in the
north-west tower. Opening Hours: Weekdays from 10 am - 1 pm and 2 - 5.30
pm.
A
little further along Lavitt's Quay is Cork Arts Society Gallery (4),
which hosts continual exhibitions of fine art, paintings, sculpture, ceramics,
batiks etc. Continue west along the quay and you will come to a footbridge,
you can often see large flocks of swans and other birds nearby. The Granary
Theatre (23) is a little further on and the road leads on (walking
only due to 1-way traffic flow) to the Mardyke Walk. The Walk dates
from 1719 and is still a favorite of the people of Cork. At the far end
of the Mardyke are the University College Sports Grounds (24).
The new running track here has hosted Ovett, Coe, Walker, Cochlan, to
mention but a few. Back in 1984 the Russians broke the World Hammer record
here six times at one meeting. Situated just off the Mardyke are Fitzgerald's
Park and City Museum (27). The Park is a relaxing blend of riverside
walks, trees, flower beds and a natural lake with a fountain. Across the
river you can see many interesting buildings including Cork City Gaol.
This magnificent "castle style" 19th century building was a womens prison.
Today visitors can take a guided tour through furnished cells, with lifelike
characters, sound effects and view exhibitions and experience the day-to-day
life style of a 19th century prison. The gaol can be easily reached by
crossing the "shaky bridge" (a suspension style pedestrian footbridge).
Follow the road back to the river, cross over the bridge on to the South
Main Street, and on your left is the Beamish and Crawfords Brewery
(13). This brewery building is recognisable by its half-timbered Tudor
frontage and interesting cupola, weathervane and clock. This is the home
of Carling Lager and local Beamish Stout (milder and fuller than Guiness
- try it!). A tour can sometimes be arranged by applying to the Brewery,
in writing, in advance. A little further down the South Main Street turn
right on to Tuckey Street and then right again on to the Grand Parade.
The City Library (15) is on your right and at the end of the Grand
Parade by the river is the National Monument (16). This memorial
in limestone at the junction between the Grand Parade and the South Mall
was unveiled on Patrick's Day 1906. It commemorates the Irish Rebels of
the 1798 and 1867 Uprisings. Surrounding the Maid of Erin, leaning on
a broken cross, are four of Ireland's leading patriots - Thomas Davis,
Michael O'Dwyer, O'Neill-Crowley, and Wolfe Tone. It includes the crests
of the four provinces of Ireland - Connaught, Leinster, Munster and Ulster.
Nearby, also beside the river, is a War Memorial to the dead of two world
wars, in particular the Royal Munster Fusiliers. In the 1st World War
or 'Great War', more Irishmen per head of population died in Flanders
than other participating nations. The Hiroshima Memorial, an uncarved
granite stone, lies nearby.
Turn left to the South Mall; this street is the business and financial
centre of Cork, containing many interesting buildings. Many have steps
leading from what was once an open flowing river channel, with boat houses
below at street level. Houses No. 53 and 74 South Mall are two examples
of houses built with Dutch brick which arrived in Cork as ballast on board
ships trading with Holland.
At the end of the South Mall is the former Provincial Bank, a highly ornate
Corinthian structure. Opposite, in Parnell Place, is the Cork Savings
Bank, designed by the Kearne Bros., and Sir Thomas Deane. Beside it, in
stark contrast is Connolly Hall, the Trade Union Headquarters and also
a music venue for visiting groups and artists. Looking across the river
from Connolly Hall is the City Hall (37) Constructed
from large limestone blocks the City Hall was opened by President Eamon
De Valera in 1936. The funds were provided by the British Government in
reparation for the burning of the original city hall by English Crown
Forces on December 20th/21st 1920 during the Irish War of Independence.
The City Hall houses the annual International Choral and Folk Dance Festival,
in which groups from as far afield as Australia, U.S.A., Eastern Europe
and Russia participate, as well as many other events and exhibitions throughout
the year.
Turn left up Parnell Place and when you reach the North channel of the
river on your right is the City Bus Station (35) and on your left
is Merchant's Quay Shopping Centre (34). Walk through the Shopping
Centre, where there are two floors of department stores, shops and restaurants
for you to enjoy, and you will emerge on Patrick Street opposite Father
Matthew's statue (33). Walk along Patrick Street until you come to
Academy Street turning off to the right; at the top of Academy Street
to the right is the Crawford Art Gallery (6). Located in Emmet
Place the Crawford Gallery houses old masters and modern Irish artists,
as well as an excellent cafe and restaurant. The northern portion dates
from 1724 (facing the Opera House), It was formerly the city's Custom
House when ships could enter the square where the Opera House Fountain
sits today. The right wing was designed by Richard Hill and added in 1866
- a faithfully copied "marriage in stone".
Turn left into the Paul Street area; a former back street now tastefully
converted into a thriving shopping area with restaurants, boutiques, craft
and bookshops, in the heart of old Cork. The Church of St. Peter and St.
Paul is a beautiful 19th century Catholic church in an ornate neo-Gothic
style - call in to quietly experience another world! The Paul Street area
has many French associations........ being part of the Old French Quarter
(9). The Huguenots were French Protestants forced to flee their own
country because of persecution in the 17th century. In Cork they congregated
in Paul Street, French Church Street, and Carey's Lane. In French Church
Street services were performed in French into the present century. As
native Catholics were prevented by the Penal Laws from becoming involved
in trade, the French settlers filled the vacuum as wholesale merchants,
beef and butter exporters, tallow-chandlers, brewers and coopers.
Follow French Church Street or Carey's Lane back down to Patrick Street
and cross over into Princes Street where the entrance to the English
Markets (12) is located. This thriving covered market with its variety
of stalls selling goods and fresh produce has entrances from Patrick Street
(via the Market Parade), from Princess Street and from the Grand Parade
the entrances lead you to the fresh fish markets (right) or to the meat
and vegetables (left). The Market dates to a Charter of James 1 in 1610.
The present building, 1786, was damaged by fire in 1980 and was refurbished
by Cork Corporation to an award-winning design by T.F. MacNamara, the
City Architect. Foodstuffs peculiar to Cork may be purchased here. The
Drisheen is a mixture of dried sheep's blood and herbs made up like puddings
in skins, but of considerable length. Crubeen are pig's feet boiled 'with
the hoof on'. Troters are sheep's feet boiled in water.
Exit the English Market and cross over the Grand Parade for the last time
passing the Berwick Fountain (1860), which marked the centre point of
a bridge crossing what was then a city canal, now arched over and filled
in to form the Grand Parade. The fountain is named after Walter Berwick,
one time Chairman of the Quarter Sessions and was designed by Sir John
Benson.
In front of you is the City Park (11). Officially the "Bishop Lucey
Park" between the Grand Parade and South Main street, this park was opened
in 1985 as part of the City's 800th birthday celebrations. Named after
Cornelius Lucey, a Bishop and Freeman of Cork (1952 - 1980), it occupies
a previously derelict site. The entrance Archway was reconstructed from
the Corn Cornmarket, dating from 1850. The park includes a sculptured
fountain of eight bronze swans, representing the 800 years of the city
as a chartered Norman town (1185 AD). The original monastic settlement
was founded earlier, in the 6th century by St. Finbarr.
In the course of clearance and construction, archaeologists found portions
of the early city walls exposed and preserved just inside the entrance.
A section of the walls is on view at ground level in the neighbouring
Grand Parade Hotel.
At the far end of the Park just off the South Main Street, the Triskel
Arts Centre (10) provides an excellent and exciting all-year-round
programme of contemporary arts - exhibitions, featuring local and national
visual art, film, music, theatre and literary event. An extensive education
programme is also available. There is a small Cafe where you can enjoy
a coffee or taste the excellent home-cooked lunches. The cafe features
two stained-glass windows by artist Maud Cotter and James Scanlon.
From here you can return to the starting point of your tour just a couple
of hundred metres away via Washington Street. This brings you to the end
of your walking tour.
Photos
AerRianta Cork (St. Finbarrs) and City Museum.
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